Getting Noticed in Fashion Photography

My First Vogue Cover of Cindy Crawford in 1986, I was 24 years old.

My First Vogue Cover of Cindy Crawford in 1986, I was 24 years old.

Fashion photographers have a hard time getting noticed these days. There’s just too damn many out there, even for seasoned veterans it’s a cut throat era.

I was asked a question this morning by a young photographer, and since I have not had the time to do any writing (more about why in my later writings *hehe*).

The young photographer a world away asked…
Hey just a question??
How on earth do you ever get noticed :(
do tell about your sucess :)

So I thought, well this is an easy enough answer if I give the short version, at least it was for me on my chosen path.

“In one word it would be tenacity. That said,  do things extra-ordinarily and then get in people faces with it. Be charming, but never take no for an answer, everyone want’s to be noticed… But it’s as simple as telling an art director or editor, “I want to work for your magazine” if they so no reply with “then please tell me how to work for your magazine.” And so on, you keep showing that person your passion and desire and they will eventually say yes…

A footnote: Just remember you must have the goods (portfolio) to back it up!

Jerry

Fine Art Nude Photography: Let’s Get Naked

 

Julia © Jerry Avenaim Photography

Julia © Jerry Avenaim Photography

Jerry has devoted over ten years to a personal project titled “Naked Truth,” which showcases the human form in the organic environment of our natural landscape.  This beautiful collection of images is shot wholly on film, with nothing retouched, and is slated for completion this year.

If you want to be like Jerry, perhaps I can help by lending a model’s perspective on how to get a girl naked in front of your camera (that is why you own the camera in the first place, isn’t it?) and once you’ve got her naked, how to conduct a comfortable shoot.

 

SECURING THE SHOOT

1. Make No Assumptions:  Never assume that just because a model has posed nude for someone else, she will pose nude for you.

2. Success Lies in the Details:  Take a moment to introduce yourself, explain your concept, provide all pertinent details relating to the shoot and tell the model why you think she’d be a great fit for your project.

3. Your Work Speaks for Itself:  The odds that a model will agree to do a fine art shoot with you increase exponentially if you can show her a substantial body of similar work. 

 

Samantha © Jerry Avenaim Photography

Samantha © Jerry Avenaim Photography

If you have never shot fine art, clearly conceptualize exactly what you’re going for.  Then pull together a collection of similar images by other photographers whose work you admire.  Present those to the model and either convince her that you have the skill to replicate them, or tell her honestly that you have no idea how your stuff will come out but you’re looking for a muse who is willing to experiment with you.  Either way, clear communication is the key.

 

DURING THE SHOOT

1. Modesty Matters:  Models have varying degrees of modesty, just like anyone else.  Take the extra minute to make sure the model is comfortable stripping down in whatever environment you may be using.

2. Bite Your Tongue:  Even the most jaw-droppingly beautiful women sometimes harbor insecurities and body image issues.  Snorts of, “Thank god for Photoshop” are never welcome, least of all by a woman who has generously agreed to bare all in front of your lens.   

3. Professionalism is Paramount:  When you’re fully clothed and the model you’re shooting is nude, excessive flattery intended to bolster her confidence may become uncomfortable for both parties. 

If anyone has questions related to fine art photography that they’d like answered from a model’s perspective, please feel free to leave them in your comments and I will happily address them.  And launch questions you’d like answered from a photographer’s perspective to Jerry.  Or if any of you have any secrets, successes or nightmares in this arena that you’d like to share, have at it.

Enjoy shooting naked!
 

Deborah Fujiwara photo by Renee Jacobs

Deborah Fujiwara photo by Renee Jacobs

This entry written by: Deborah Fujiwara

Celebrity Portraits: a Few Tips

My portrait of actress Halle Berry chosen as Picture of the Year by People Magazine

My portrait of actress Halle Berry chosen as Picture of the Year by People Magazine

Here are some tips and tricks you can use every day for photographing fashion, beauty and celebrity portraits.

Because society views celebrities and supermodels as larger than life subjects, I try and fulfill the viewers ‘perception’ by using a few simple formulas.

First, when creating a dynamic portrait I use a long lens. This will create three things:

1.) Compression – The natural compression created by using a long lens will immediately flatter the subjects’ features instead of distorting them.

2.) Comfort – The greater image magnification created by utilizing longer lenses forces you (the photographer) to move farther away from your subject. This increased distance gives your subject greater comfort by creating space between yourself and your subject. This will always put whomever you are photographing more at ease.

3.) Composition: When it comes to focal length of the lens choosing a longer lens will lessen the focal field. Therefore you will have more concentration on your subject than you will your background.

This celebrity portrait of actor James Caan appeared exclusively on the cover of Photo Insider

This celebrity portrait of actor James Caan appeared exclusively on the cover of Photo Insider

Next, using the chosen long lens, I place the camera at chest level with the subject so I am shooting up at them just a bit (if we were using a short focal lens I would be shooting up their nose and distorting their features – not a pretty picture). This upward P.O.V. gives the image the perception that the subject has been placed on a pedestal, and by doing that it can render a beautiful and regal look, or on the opposite, a tough, even menacing look to the portrait.

Lastly, a very simple rule. No matter what the composition I almost always keep the eyes of the person I’m photographing in the upper third of the frame, this is because it’s were we are naturally drawn when viewing the photograph.

The only exception to the above rule is when I’m shooting unusual compositions and utilizing negative space for my desired composition.

In the end I think of it like this; learn the rules so you can understand how to break them properly!

Jerry Avenaim

My Voyage of Self Discovery

   

As a fashion photographer, one of the hardest things any photographer will ever have to do is to find his or her own style. In my earlier works I was very influenced by the people I worked for. Patrick Demarchelier for one - I found Peter Lindberg and Richard Avedon had influenced me the most.

In my formative years of fashion photography I had to teach myself the mechanics of lighting. To do so, I would pour through magazines and study the catch lights in the subject eyes. And then try to replicate the look in my early test shoots. This was the way I would teach myself, while honing the blade of my craft until I found my own voice and vision.

When scanning these images in the other night for an upcoming lecture I realized again, the greatest photographs you will make are the ones you make for yourself. Living in Milan, and armed with nothing but an all manual 35 mm camera fixed with a 50 mm lens and Tri-X film, I set out to do just that.

I learned early on that I preferred to create my images as I saw them through the viewfinder. I never cropped my photographs and the clients knew that because I made all my prints with the natural black boarder left by that frame of film. It showed me and my potential clients that I had the vision to capture exactly what I saw in the moment, and how I saw it. Finally, it showed I could tell a story early on without even so much as a make up artist or wardrobe stylist. It was just myself and the model, and often a last minute ‘let’s go shoot something.’

   

As is often the case when you are shooting for someone else, i.e.; a magazine, an ad agency etc. compromise is introduced and you lose much of your creative control. This ranges from the way you might light or shoot, even down to the final image selections.

If you find yourself getting to that point, it’s important to remember we still have to make a living with our chosen craft. So I would tell you as I tell all working photographers, have a personal project going that is yours and only yours. It may become a book one day or at least the beginnings of one. But most important, make it something that will feed your creative spirit and satisfy the hunger and passion you began with. (All images circa 1986 Milan, Italy © Jerry Avenaim Photography)

Jerry Avenaim

Jerry Avenaim Television Interview with Tom Sparks

I hope you enjoy this 30 minute interview, it went by quickly for us both. There was so much more to talk about :) And by the way, since this interview was televised live the control booth made an error when showing my name as ‘James Avenaim’ for the first third of the show. Bastards :)

For those that attended my Samy’s camera seminar, it was a pleasure to meet you!

Test

I will be writing more often I hope, I just haven’t had the time. I will be appearing on Life in the Fab Lane with Kimora Lee airing February 2009 on The Style Channel and E!

Glamour Lighting on Location

Fashion photography is a tough game, as is advertising photography. Combine the two and it can prove to be a stress load if you’re not prepared for anything that can present itself. Then again, I feel that way about all my assignments.

I apologize to my readers for not having a chance to write at all in the month of December. I’ve been on full overload (not always a bad thing).

One of the last shoots of the year was for Deliverance Poker. A great client and an interesting series of shoot days in Las Vegas. The reason it was so different for me is it was neither fashion or celebrity. The hook in this advertising campaign, was to shoot it with a glamour edge. In the end, I made it work with my own personal style. And to the clients delight, we created a brand for the present and future image of Deliverance Poker.

I’ll be posting some hero images from the campaign and writing about how they were created next year. In the meantime, enjoy this behind the scenes video. The way I see it, it’s like this; the video is the journey and the photograph at the end is the destination.

When you see the journey, will you be able to figure out how I arrived to my destination? If not, fire away. I’m here for your questions!

I’d like to give special thanks to Iris Productions and Vincent Moreno for this video.

Wishing everyone a joyous and prosperous new year.

Jerry Avenaim

Simple Lighting Solution

Lifestyle Photograph Jerry Avenaim

Lifestyle Photograph Jerry Avenaim

Here is a simple lighting solution when you’re faced with shooting a fashion photograph or a beauty shot using only natural light - at high noon!

This image could have been difficult, but I made it as simple as it gets. It used to be when shooting catalog, editorial, or just about anything using sunlight, I would have to wait for the early morning light or the late afternoon light. At times I could backlight, and I love the look. But to continue shooting throughout the day (even when the sun is directly overhead) can prove to be quite the challenge without using silks and strobes.

Once again, the luxury of time on was not on my side. Moreover, to keep a look and feel to all the ‘lifestyle photography’ I had to keep using natural light. To introduce artificial lighting here would have interrupted the natural feel of all the other images.

So the simple solution: I laid the model on the grass (I’ve done this with flower petals and a myriad of other organic materials) and standing on a step ladder I shot down on her. What this did first and foremost was give the subject an instant face lift. When shooting anyone at that angle gravity can be your best friend :)

And the lighting was indeed the sun, however by using a five dollar white beach umbrella I diffused the sun and created a beautiful even light, much like open shade. It can still be tough on the models eyes, so a simple ‘on three’ and shoot can work wonders!

Jerry Avenaim

Celebrity Photography and Working Under Pressure

American Idol

American Idol Judges photographed for the cover of TV GUIDE

You not only have to be good at what you do, you have to be consistent and work well under pressure. I try to set an easy and relaxed atmosphere for my clients, the celebrities and their publicist.

Photographing a celebrity can be difficult and most of the work you see is done prior to the actual shoot. Once given an a celebrity assignment, if I don’t know much about the person I will spend extensive amounts of time researching the subject’s work and finding ways to show the characters they play both on the screen and who they really are off of it.

I try and create celebrity photography that is like looking into the souls of my subjects showing all of the humanity buried inside the god-like celebrity of today. By treating each of my subjects in such a personal manner I hope to have captured images of celebrities today with a raw unfiltered emotion that the work stand longevity.

One of my favorite cover shoots, and ironically one of his most stressful, was the cover shot of “American Idol” judges Simon Cowell, Paula Abdul and Randy Jackson. I admit that I’m a fan of the hit show, but I also admit that shooting the cover was undertaken under tremendous stress.

This shoot took place in the evening following a live broadcast of the show. In attendance were the executives of Fox, the editors of TV Guide, a British TV crew and another video crew filming my pre-lighting techniques – about 40 people in all. There was absolutely no margin for error. The end result was one of the more memorable images of the trio with Simon tied and gagged to a chair by his fellow judges.

 

Dr. Phil photographed for the cover of Newsweek

Dr. Phil photographed for the cover of Newsweek Magazine.

Working under pressure and difficult situations is something every celebrity photographer must face.

Whether it is surrounding pressure from executives, the time constraints put on them from the schedule of the celebrity, or at times simply the celebrity.

When I was assigned to photograph Dr. Phil for the cover of Newsweek Magazine, it seemed like everything was going to go wrong as time was not on my side. The magazine wanted different color backgrounds and suits as he appears on his talk show. However, when I met Dr Phil for the first time, I found that he was the same person privately that he is publicly. It was then that I knew that I wanted to capture that larger-than-life image for the cover shot. 

After going through several backgrounds as Newsweek requested, my vision to isolate his face by photographing him wearing a black shirt against a black backdrop. But it almost didn’t happen…  We were scheduled to finish the shoot before lunch to allow Dr. Phil to keep a scheduled television interview but time had slipped away.

The changing of the lighting and the backgrounds to do this would take a little extra time, time I felt we would not have and I thought I was going to have to let those shots go. Dr. Phil could see my angst and came to me, he simply asked me if it would help me out if he switched his interview until later in the day so that we could keep shooting. I emphatically told him I would give him a hug if he could make the switch and allow me to finish the shoot. As I went to shake his hand he exclaimed “now don’t be a welcher, I want that hug!’” The shots that came from Dr. Phil’s willingness to alter his schedule became the cover of Newsweek.

Jerry Avenaim

A portrait that led to the Dr. Phil show.

Dr. Phil as photographed for Newsweek Magazine

Dr. Phil as photographed for Newsweek Magazine

As you might have read in a previous article, I photographed Dr. Phil for the cover of Newsweek. Since that first cover shoot I have also photographed both Dr. Phil and his wife Robin for several other magazine and book covers.

The experience is always one of joy and fulfillment with truly wonderful people.

One rule I’ve always held firm since I was starting out as a fashion photographer is to get fashion models their prints, and get them there quickly.

Ever since my early fashion days and now in my celebrity career, I’ve always sent gift prints to the people I photograph. Without exception, every celebrity I have ever photographed, I have made certain to send a signed gift print direclty to them and or their publicist.

Well, on this specific occasion, I thought hey, since Dr. Phil tapes his show daily on the Paramount lot, I would just drop the prints off personally, which I did.

I stopped by during a taping of the show one afternoon, and during a commercial break, I presented the prints backstage to Dr. Phil personally. He was so gracious and grateful he called over his wife Robin and many of his staff including his executive producer. After viewing the prints (there were two) he asked me if I would mind if hed showed them to the audience. I said “sure no problem, I would be honored.”

Well as he came back from commercial break with the clam-shell case holding the prints under his arm, he began talking to the audience (and all of America) about what he was about to show, the next thing I knew, the man called me out!

It was a gracious act of kindness by Dr. Phil, and something he didn’t have to do. But it was also a moment I will never forget as long as I live. I hope the portrait will become a part of Hollywood history, because this video is a part of mine.

Jerry Avenaim

Dynamic Lighting on Location

As a celebrity photographer you face many challenges. Photographing celebrities on location both indoors and out can prove to be quite an experience.

When using flash indoors or out, expose your subject with the aperture and your background with your shutter speed. This will equally balance the mixture of light. Nobody seems to be able to get that unless they have a picture to put together with it. It has nothing to do with depth of field. It’s finding the balance and equality between existing light and strobe light. You can control your strobe light but you can’t control your existing light. So if I’m outside at high noon, I need a fast shutter speed. Or if I’m inside, I’m going to do what’s called dragging the shutter to allow the ambient light in the room to match the output of the strobe.

Luke Wilson Photographed by Jerry Avenaim

Luke Wilson Photographed at the Sunset motel by Jerry Avenaim

For example, I photographed actor Luke Wilson in a seedy Sunset Blvd. motel room. I wanted to give him this morning after look, as though he spent the night with someone and was getting himself together the next morning.  As you can see, in the background was ambient light coming in through the doorway, a television set and a table lamp.

I lit my subject with a Profoto 7b power pack with bare-head zoom reflector and bounced the light into a corner of the ceiling behind me, I then metered the exposure accordingly with a Sekonic L-358. The strobe read f8 and I dragged the shutter to a 15th of a second to get that one stop ratio for the ambient light in the background. This gave me the perfect lighting ratio for the naturally lit look I was trying to achieve.

 

Kevin Connolly of Entourage photographed by Jerry Avenaim

Kevin Connolly of Entourage photographed by Jerry Avenaim

When I photographed actor Kevin Connolly for L.A. Confidential magazine, it was both a cover shoot and editorial feature. I was looking for a more gritty look in this image so I chose to shoot it at The Brewery in downtown Los Angeles for it’s great atmosphere.

By looking at the photograph it would be hard for anyone to know it was made at high noon with the sun overhead and to the right of the subject. Now this was was an age old rule of when not to shoot your subject outside. Yeah right, I say learn the rules so you know how to break them properly.

In this image you can see where the sun is casting a shadow on the pavement (this gives you perspective on it’s position above Kevin).

For the key light; I lit my Kevin with a Profoto 7b2 power pack fitted with a silver Profoto Softlight Reflector mounted on a boom arm just over camera and directed at the subject. I then metered the exposure accordingly with a Sekonic L-558. First I metered the sun directly - f4.0 at 500th of a second, then I powered the strobe on Kevin to read f11 this gave me a three stop ratio by overpowering the sun by using the strobe. This again gave me the perfect lighting ratio for the now gritty look and dark blue sky I was trying to achieve.

My tip for great lighting on location: Expose the subject with the aperture and balance or ratio the background with shutter. In other words, set the aperture for the flash-lit component of the overall exposure, and the shutter speed based on the available-light component to achieve balanced, natural-looking lighting or overpower the ambient light for a dramatic gritty feel!

Footnote: I most always use the Silver Softlight Reflector for men. When utilizing the same look for women, I’ll use the White Softlight Reflector (with diffuser) and a two stop ratio as it is softer and more forgiving on women.

Jerry Avenaim